Uses LM317- datasheet here: www.national.com Better resolution photos: i53.tinypic.com i55.tinypic.com i54.tinypic.com i52.tinypic.com i55.tinypic.com

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Siemens LOGO based realistic Finnish signaling, interlocking and automatic train control on miniature railway. I did this on my school; this is my graduate work. I built everything, except PIKO tracks, switches, switch electric turnings, grass mat, the Siemens ER20-diesel loco and two german Esslingen-passenger wagons. Those were bought from miniature railway shop, but track ballast, all signals, interlocking box, level crossing signalling and “bell”, automatic train path based control, signal relay groups, trackside sensors and their relays, switch turning control and locking, and all programming on LOGO:s were built and assembled together by me. Whole project took 2 months and 1700 euros. There is 5 Siemens LOGO:s on the project, two on interlocking device, one on level crossing control, one on automatic train path based control, and one on switch turning and locking. Three out of five programs on logics are larger than 125 blocks (maximum: 130 blocks on LOGO), and two of them are already on maximum. There is NO Digital Command Control (DCC) on this track, train is solely controlled by automatic train path based control, and it controls the voltage on the rails with four contactors. There is power supply of old computer supplying the voltage on the rails. 5 volts is the maximum, and by adjustable resistor and four contactors it can be dropped to 2,5 volts and reversed. All signals were built from parts NOT specifically designed to be part of signalling, but i am …

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This is the operation of the ORBIS T7B Light Timer Switch, which is still working perfectly everyday to my house since 1970!!!!. It is an analog timer patend from ORBIS Company, with a relay, a resistor, and a small bottle with liquid mercury. When you press the button at the entry of the house the relay activating upwards, the bottle/mercury moving(lights come on), and the resistor start to heat the resistor’s inside metal so the metal because of the dilation moving slowly to the left….until the (adjustable timing metal) switch which is beside the resistor come off. Then the relay goes down at the half way because it stucks at the stopper of the resistor’s metal edge. Also the resistor stops heating the metal so the metal cools down slowly and because of the constriction the metal moving to the right until the stopper release the relay to full down position, moves the bottle/mercury, and the lights come off. Very clever, reliable, and quality system from ORBIS that working (my grandfather install it) since 1970 continiously , many times everyday for 40 years..!!! It is still working perfectly up to now!!! Unbelievable..!!!

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this is adjustable speed and it only works with old style controllers the cost is like $20 for the parts tools: soldering iron solder wire cutters razor parts: NOTE: the numbers next to the parts are product numbers for radioshack stores 2.2k-Ohm resistors 271-1121 1.0uF Tantalum Capacitor 272-1434 wire I used USB cable wire for color coding 10k-Ohm Resistors 271-1126 SPST Momentary push button switch 275-1571 100k-Ohm Micro-size Potentiometer 271-284 220-Ohm Resistors 271-1313 NPN-Type Switching Transistors 276-1617 100pF Ceramic-Disc Capacitor 272-123 TLC Low-Power Timer IC 276-1718 IC PC Board: 276-159 songs:your gonna go far kid-The Offspring Rock n Roll Train-ACDC have fun

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